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Total Mods: 0 Joined: November/05/2014 Posts: 2 |
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Hi, I'm looking to get a brand done in february next year.
The only two things I really want are: 1. For it to be a fire brand 2. For it to be done in one piece rather than several strikes I'm looking for advice from anyone who has had something similar done before. What is the best type of brand to use? A steak brand? One that's used for cattle? Or something i've never heard of? I've heard that using livestock brands can mean a blobby, distorted result. I read somewhere that steak brands are good as the designs aren't as thick. How hot does the brand need to be? How long does it need to be on the skin? I've seen every video I could find and they all seem to hold them on for different amounts of time. How far apart does each part of the design need to be so that it doesn't heal into other parts and create a weird blobby mess? Basically I've hunted around the internet and the only consistent information I've come across is "Yes, branding is a thing that you can do." Also, completely going out on a limb here but does anyone know someone in Queensland who has experience branding and who would take on a job from a pagan weirdo as part of an initiatory rite? |
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![]() Total Mods: 12 Joined: December/07/2005 Location: Australia Posts: 283 |
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hey Blake, i'm in QLD too - I know there's some places here that do scarification though i'm not sure on branding, there are practitioners who travel and such though.
i'm not one to suggest doing mods on ones self but with it being a pagan rite ect is it something simple enough to be done yourself? there are branding pens for sale online or you could construct your own tools for fire branding. most of the brands iv seen spread over time a considerable amount, (initial brand width 2.5mm, healed width 4mm, spread width 4.5 > 6.0mm for example) feel free to send me a message, iv had friends do branding themselves via both methods. |
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Total Mods: 34 Joined: September/15/2008 Posts: 1179 |
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it is pretty likely you will have spreading with most methods of branding, though it depends on the size of the piece and the area of body it is on.
you could look into solar branding. my brand was done with an electrocautery pen. it spread A TON from the original design. |
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Total Mods: 30 Joined: July/05/2010 Posts: 630 |
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I have two strike brands (the type you are asking about) They were done with custom made irons made for this purpose. They were heated to glowing red hot and applied for a second. No more. The appeared to spread during healing but look fine after a year. No "bleeding out"
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Total Mods: 0 Joined: November/05/2014 Posts: 2 |
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It's going to be a very simple design. Basicall just four runes.
I was thinking of accounting for the spreading by getting a brand that's a thin as possible and spreading each rune slightly futher apart than looks right on the brand. That way, once they've healed and spread, it should look better and they shouldn't have bled into each other. I'm hoping to have the brand done by a friend. He's a tattoo artist and I trust him in terms of infection control and the like. It's important spiritually that the brand is heated in a fire rather than electrocautery or using the sun (though I love the idea of both of those and might pursue them for future projects). |
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Total Mods: 30 Joined: July/05/2010 Posts: 630 |
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The "bleeding" that occurs is because of the collateral burns to the tissue near where the brand is placed. Holding the brand to your skin for too long is going to cause this. It does not have to touch you for any more than a second, at most. Just a quick press and pull away. About as fast as you can do that. The brand itself doesnt hurt really, but brands are the hardest to heal of ANY mod Ive ever done. So have fun with that! :)
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Total Mods: 1 Joined: October/01/2013 Posts: 171 |
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around here, when going for the kind of brand you're looking for, we use silver and wait until the metal is no longer red hot before putting it against the skin, and only for two seconds or less
remember, your skin is about 1/3 the thickness of a cow's hide, that should not be interpreted as 1/3rd the resistance and yes about 1/10th or less, so take care, it's better to underdo and have to strengthen the design later than to overdo and need plastic surgery to disguise the fuck up |
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Total Mods: 34 Joined: September/15/2008 Posts: 1179 |
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amen. |
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